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In the market of concrete sealers, there are a number of different options available to you. There are offerings such as surface-level sealers, such as acrylic sealers, epoxies, or polyaspartics and urethanes. Then, there are the penetrating variety of sealer, such as silicates, whose carriers can range from sodium to lithium. While it may be confusing to determine the difference between a silicate and a silane/siloxane, for example, the differences are not all that esoteric. For instance, we shall consider a silicate versus a silane/siloxane. A silicate is a penetrating sealer made up of small particles of sealant. These small silicate particles are suspended in a sodium or lithium carrier that helps transport the particles past the surface pores of the concrete. The water or solvent which the silicate sealer is based in will simply allow the particles of silicate and sodium/lithium to be spread on the surface – from there, the water will evaporate and the solvent will become part of the concrete. Once within the concrete, the silicate particles will pass through the vast network of miniscule hairline cracks and microscopic pores natural to every piece of concrete. Part of what makes concrete such a strong material is the build-up of calcium silicate hydrate. Silicate sealers react chemically with minerals present within the concrete to create more CSH, which makes the concrete stronger while simultaneously blocking out the passage of water, salts, and gases through the concrete. Silane/siloxanes, while also a comprehensive type of concrete sealer, work a little differently. While the silane particles penetrate within the concrete, they do not react chemically to densify the concrete. Instead, the silane and siloxane particles will work in concert to create a hydrophobic barrier that will block out water and moisture. The larger particles of siloxane will remain on the surface of the concrete to provide the brunt of this barrier, while the silane particles will complement the barrier, reinforcing it to make it stronger. As the silane/siloxane sealers feature larger particles, they are better suited for such concrete surfaces as cinderblocks, concrete blocks, and bricks – the more porous materials to which you cannot apply silicates. Both sealers are excellent choices for projects that require their particular strengths, but just make sure to do the requisite research to determine which your project needs. Our Take: Silane/siloxane sealers readily available are Siloxa-Tek 8500 and Okon S40 while a silicate densifier that has stood the test of time is The Ashford Formula.Check Price on Amazon
- Siloxa-Tek 8500 Ready to Use (1 gal.)
- Rust-Oleum OKON S-40 Water Repellent Sealer (5 gal.)
- Ashford Formula Concrete Densifier (5 gal.)
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While water damage is an obvious potential damage a home or building owner has to worry about when it comes to concrete, there are other potentially harmful things that you may not even notice. The passage of radon, a gas linked to cancer, through your concrete into your home or building is one of these. Concrete, by its very nature, has a large amount of tiny pores and hairlines cracks that extend throughout it. Beginning at the surface, these pores can allow gases like methane and radon to pass through your concrete with little problem.
While concrete as a structural material often makes it the only choice for construction, regardless of drawbacks like the passage of radon, you can easily defend your home or building from this potentially carcinogenic gas. Radon is a colorless, tasteless, and odorless gas that is actually the second greatest cause of lung cancer, after smoking, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. In order to know if radon is afflicting your home or building, you need to get a radon test kit and follow the instructions. As the gas cannot be tasted or smelled, these test kits are really the only way to know if radon is plaguing your home.
If you have radon in your home, a possible cause could be that it is coming through the concrete. Therefore, the solution to this problem would be to use a quality concrete sealer specifically designed to block out radon, methane, and similar harmful gases. A surface sealer is not a great choice, as it would not comprehensively block out the gas. The best choice for a concrete sealer is a silicate sealer. Silicate sealers are part of the class of penetrating sealers, coming in sodium or lithium forms. The particles of silicate in the sealer will penetrate past the surface pores of the concrete into the material. Once here, they will react with various minerals already present within the concrete to chemically produce more calcium silicate hydrate (CSH). The production of CSH will block the pores and cracks through which radon and similar gases can travel, helping ensure your home remains adequately protected.
Our Take: A radon reducing sealer that can be used is Radonseal.
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SealMaster Concrete Sealer is a water-based, 100% acrylic clear sealer from SealMaster, a company better known for asphalt sealcoating and pavement maintenance products. It is sold mainly in 5-gallon pails and drums through SealMaster locations, and it is aimed at contractors and homeowners sealing driveways, patios, walks and garage floors. The bottom line: it is a straightforward, low-VOC acrylic that can be used on fresh or existing concrete, but it is a basic, lower-solids film sealer that will need regular recoating and is harder to find in small sizes.
| Type | Film-forming clear sealer (also meets ASTM C309 as a curing compound) |
| Chemistry | Water-based 100% acrylic emulsion, 18% non-volatiles |
| Finish | Dries clear, non-yellowing (sheen level not stated) |
| Coverage | About 200 sq ft per gallon (200–300 depending on porosity) |
| Coats | One thin coat recommended; optional second coat after 24 hours |
| Dry/recoat | Tack-free in under 40 minutes at 77°F; recoat after 24 hours |
| Temperature | Surface and air at least 50°F during and for 24 hours after |
| VOC | Under 100 g/L |
| Best for | Driveways, patios, sidewalks, walls, garage and basement floors |
| Not for | Cold-weather work; anyone wanting a small can or a penetrating, no-film finish |
| New concrete | Can be applied once fresh concrete is firm enough to walk on with no surface water |
What It Is / How It Works
SealMaster Concrete Sealer (spec sheet product code SMT-250) is still listed on SealMaster’s website under the same name. It is a ready-to-use blend of acrylic emulsion resins, surfactants and water. You spray or roll it on in a thin coat, the water evaporates and the acrylic resin forms a clear film on top of the concrete. That film is what blocks water, salt and oil from soaking in.
Because it meets ASTM C309 Type I Class A, it can also serve as a curing compound on freshly placed concrete, holding moisture in the slab while it gains strength. SealMaster’s spec sheet lists “excellent” resistance in spot tests to motor oil, water, 10% sodium hydroxide, 10% sodium chloride, 10% calcium chloride, trisodium phosphate and ammonia, and it says the film stays clear when wet instead of blushing white.
The spec sheet lists 18% non-volatiles. That puts it on the lighter side for an acrylic sealer, so expect a thin protective film rather than a thick, glossy wet look. Thin acrylic films wear away with traffic and UV, which is why acrylic sealers in general are recoated every few years. For more on how acrylics compare with other sealer types, see our Best Concrete Sealers for 2026 guide.
Where It Works Best (and where it doesn’t)
SealMaster lists driveways, parking lots, patios, sidewalks, statuary, concrete walls, factory floors, garage floors and basement floors as suitable surfaces, both interior and exterior. It makes the most sense on large jobs where buying a 5-gallon pail is practical, on new concrete where you want one product to cure and seal, and for anyone who already buys from a SealMaster location for driveway work.
It is a poor fit for cool-season work, because both the air and the surface must stay at or above 50°F for 24 hours after application. A thin acrylic film is also not the best choice for a garage floor that sees hot tires and heavy use; acrylics in general can soften or lift under that kind of wear, and an epoxy or polyurea coating is the stronger option there. If you prefer a sealer that leaves concrete looking untouched and does not need stripping later, a penetrating silane/siloxane is a better match.
Pros
- Water-based and low VOC (under 100 g/L), with water cleanup
- Meets ASTM C309, so it can cure and seal new concrete in one step
- Dries tack-free quickly (under 40 minutes at 77°F)
- Non-yellowing, and resists blushing when wet
- Published spot resistance to oil, salt solutions and common cleaners
Cons
- Sold in 5-gallon pails and larger, mainly through SealMaster locations
- Lower solids (18%), so a thin film that will need recoating
- Needs 50°F or warmer for 24 hours after application
- Sheen level and expected service life are not published
- Film-forming, so it can wear in traffic lanes and may need stripping before switching products
- Must not freeze in storage
How to Apply It
- On existing concrete, clean off all dust, debris and stains. On fresh concrete, wait until it is firm enough to walk on and there is no surface water.
- Check the forecast. Surface and air temperatures must be at least 50°F during application and for the next 24 hours, and rain should not be imminent.
- Stir thoroughly. Do not dilute.
- Apply with a garden-type or power sprayer (recommended), or a roller, brush or lambswool applicator.
- Put down one thin, even coat at about 200 sq ft per gallon. Avoid puddles.
- If a second coat is needed, apply it at least 24 hours after the first.
- Clean tools and sprayers with water before the sealer dries.
How It Compares
Big-box water-based acrylics: products sold at Home Depot and Lowe’s under brands such as BEHR and Seal-Krete come in gallon sizes and often offer a choice of low-lustre or wet-look finishes. They are easier to buy for a small patio. SealMaster’s advantage is the C309 curing rating and bulk packaging for larger jobs.
Solvent-based acrylic cure-and-seals: higher-solids solvent acrylics, such as ChemMasters’ Certi-Vex AC 1315 SuperSeal HG, build a glossier, tougher film and tolerate cooler application temperatures (down to 40°F), but they carry higher VOC, strong odor and flammability warnings.
Penetrating silane/siloxane sealers: these soak in, leave no film to wear off and do not change the look of the concrete. They do not add gloss, but for a driveway that sees road salt they usually require less upkeep. See our best driveway sealer picks.
FAQ
Can I use SealMaster Concrete Sealer on new concrete?
Yes. SealMaster says it can go on fresh concrete once it is firm enough to walk on and has no surface water, and it meets ASTM C309 Type I Class A as a curing compound.
Is SealMaster Concrete Sealer glossy?
SealMaster describes it only as drying clear and non-yellowing; it does not publish a sheen level. With 18% solids applied in a single thin coat, it is not marketed as a high-gloss wet-look product.
Can it be used on asphalt?
No. It is listed as a concrete product. For asphalt driveways, SealMaster sells separate pavement sealcoats.
How cold is too cold to apply it?
Below 50°F. Do not apply if the surface or air will drop below 50°F within 24 hours after application.
Verdict
SealMaster Concrete Sealer is an honest, no-frills water-based acrylic with a useful C309 curing rating, quick dry and low VOC. It is best for larger jobs and contractors who already buy from SealMaster. Lower solids, bulk-only packaging and an unpublished sheen and service life keep it from ranking higher for most homeowners. Check current price and availability on SealMaster’s product page. Our rating: 3.4/5
How we reviewed this product: this is a research-based review built from the manufacturer’s technical data sheet and current retail listings. We have not run our own hands-on tests of this product. Details were checked in October 2026; always follow the current label.
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Sikafloor-956 Formula One LD RTU is a ready-to-use lithium silicate densifier for hardening, dustproofing and polishing concrete floors. It was originally sold as Scofield Formula One Lithium Densifier MP and later as Sikafloor-956 LD, and it is now sold under the Sikafloor-956 Formula One LD RTU name. It’s a proven professional product for polished and densified floors, but it is not a water or stain sealer on its own.
| Type | Penetrating densifier/hardener (not a coating) |
| Chemistry | Water-based lithium silicate with a penetrating aid; 12% solids by volume |
| Finish | No film; non-yellowing; sheen comes from polishing |
| Coverage | 200–400 sq. ft. per gallon on flat finished concrete |
| Coats | Two; second coat when the first is dry to the touch |
| Dry/recoat | About 1 hour to walkable and ready to polish (70°F, 50% RH) |
| Cure | Wait 24 hours before applying a sealer or guard |
| VOC | Low VOC, low odor (no number listed) |
| Best for | Polished concrete, dye-locking, dustproofing warehouse, retail and basement floors |
| Not for | Stain or water protection by itself; sealed or coated floors |
| New concrete | At least 7 days old; 28 days preferred |
| Packaging | 5-gallon pail, 55-gallon drum (50-gallon fill) |
What It Is / How It Works
Scofield is now part of Sika, and the Formula One line has moved to Sikafloor naming. Sika’s product page lists “SCOFIELD Formula One Lithium Densifier MP” and “Sikafloor-956 LD” as former names of the current Sikafloor-956 Formula One LD RTU. If you have an older spec or bag label calling for Formula One Lithium Densifier MP, this is the product.
It’s a water-based lithium silicate. Once applied, it reacts with the cement, pozzolans and aggregate in the slab to harden and densify the surface. It is not a film, so Sika says it “will not crack, peel, or delaminate.” Sika lists it as non-yellowing, UV and weather resistant, and useful against efflorescence, frost damage and alkali-silica reaction (ASR). In polishing work it speeds up grinding and locks in dyes.
The “RTU” means ready to use. The data sheet says not to dilute it. That’s different from the separate Sikafloor-956 LD product page, which allows dilution for very hard, freshly ground concrete. Read the label on the pail you actually buy.
Where It Works Best (and where it doesn’t)
Sika lists interior and exterior floors, stairs, walkways, terrazzo, polished floors, countertops and below-grade basements. It is a strong fit for polished concrete, dusty warehouse or shop floors, and bare basement slabs where you want a harder, easier-to-clean surface with no coating to wear off.
Two important limits come straight from the data sheet. First, it “does not provide water or oil resistance without further treatment,” so a garage floor or patio still needs a sealer or guard if stains matter. Sika pairs it with Sikafloor-958 Formula One Finish Coat or Sikafloor-959 Formula One Guard W for that. Second, it is labeled for experienced professionals, and dried residue can only be removed mechanically. A homeowner can apply it, but sloppy work leaves white haze that’s hard to fix. For a homeowner seeking water repellency, a product from our best penetrating concrete sealers guide may be the better fit.
Pros
- Hardens and dustproofs without a film that can peel or delaminate
- Fast: walkable and ready to polish in about an hour under standard conditions
- Ready to use, with no mixing or dilution
- Low odor, low VOC and non-yellowing
- Locks in dyes and shortens polishing time
- Usable indoors or outdoors, including below-grade slabs
Cons
- No water or oil resistance on its own; needs a sealer or guard for stain protection
- Labeled for experienced professionals
- Puddles and dried residue are hard to remove; only mechanical removal works
- Sold in 5-gallon pails and drums, mostly through contractor suppliers
- Not a curing compound and doesn’t replace proper curing
- Surface is slippery while wet
How to Apply It
- Wait until the slab is at least 7 days old. Sika prefers 28 days so the concrete is dry and absorbent.
- Make sure the floor is dry and free of sealers, curing compounds, oil and other contaminants. If you’re polishing, grind to the aggregate exposure you want, finishing with 80–200 grit, and remove all dust and laitance.
- Do a test area first to confirm color, finish and slip resistance. Mask walls and nearby surfaces against splashes.
- Agitate lightly, then saturate the floor with a pump garden sprayer. Keep it wet for 5–10 minutes.
- Work it in with a broom, mop or sponge. Spread puddles before they dry and avoid lap marks. If puddles remain after 30 minutes, dilute and pick them up with a wet vacuum.
- When the first coat is dry to the touch, apply a second coat. Wet polishing can start at that point.
- If you’re not polishing or sealing, rinse with clean water and return the floor to service once dry. If you’re sealing, wait 24 hours so the densifier can cure.
Sika’s drying figures are based on 70°F and 50% relative humidity. Store and use it above freezing; the storage range is 40–120°F.
How It Compares
Euclid EUCOSIL is a sodium silicate densifier. It’s aimed at warehouse, institutional and polished floors and leaves treated concrete slightly water-beading. Euclid warns that excess left on the surface turns into white residue, and it needs 4–6 hours before foot traffic, versus about an hour for Sikafloor-956. That speed difference matters on polishing jobs.
Sikafloor-956 LD is Sika’s sister product that can be diluted 1:1 on very hard, freshly ground concrete and is listed as 0 VOC. It’s useful if you need flexibility on dense slabs.
Super-Krete S1300 Pene-Krete is a spray-applied penetrating densifier marketed for moisture vapor reduction and coating prep rather than polishing. Choose it if your goal is prepping a slab for a topcoat, not grinding and polishing.
FAQ
Is Scofield Formula One Lithium Densifier MP discontinued?
The Scofield name is retired, but the product isn’t. Sika lists Scofield Formula One Lithium Densifier MP as a former name of Sikafloor-956 Formula One LD RTU, which is a current product.
Does a lithium densifier make concrete waterproof?
No. Sika says it does not provide water or oil resistance without further treatment. It hardens the surface; a sealer or guard handles stains and water. For water protection, see our best concrete sealers for 2026.
Can I use it on new concrete?
Yes, once the slab is at least 7 days old, though 28 days is preferred. It is not a curing compound, so the slab still needs proper curing first.
Can you seal over it?
Yes. Wait 24 hours, then apply a compatible sealer or guard. Sika points to its Formula One Finish Coat and Guard W for polished floors.
Verdict
Sikafloor-956 Formula One LD RTU is a well-documented, fast-drying lithium densifier that does exactly what a densifier should: harden, dustproof and help polishing, with no film to fail. It loses points for homeowners because it’s sold in bulk through pro channels, needs careful application to avoid residue and still requires a separate sealer for stain or water protection. For its intended use, it’s one of the safer choices. Our rating: 4.4/5
How we reviewed this product: this is a research-based review built from the manufacturer’s technical data sheet and current retail listings. We have not run our own hands-on tests of this product. Details were checked in October 2026; always follow the current label.
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Affiliate disclosure: Some links on this page are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.
PROSOCO Saltguard WB is a ready-to-use, water-based silane/siloxane water repellent and chloride screen for concrete and masonry. It’s built for driveways, sidewalks, pavers, retaining walls and other surfaces hit by de-icing salts or salt air. The bottom line: it’s a well-documented, low-VOC, invisible penetrating sealer from a respected professional brand, but it’s sold mainly through distributors, its active content is modest, and coverage varies widely, so test first.
A note on the name: older data sheets and some retailers still call it “Consolideck Saltguard WB.” PROSOCO now sells it simply as Saltguard WB (item 46067). It’s the same water-based product, and it’s different from PROSOCO’s solvent-based Saltguard.
| Type | Penetrating water repellent and chloride screen |
| Chemistry | Water-based silane/siloxane, 5% actives |
| VOC | Under 25 g/L |
| Finish | No film; natural look (over-application can darken or mottle) |
| Coverage | 50–300 sq ft per gallon, depending on porosity and texture |
| Coats | One saturating coat on flatwork; two wet-on-wet on vertical surfaces |
| Dry/traffic | Dry to touch in 1 hour; protect from rain 6 hours; traffic after 24 hours |
| Cure | Water repellency keeps building for up to 14 days |
| Best for | Driveways, sidewalks, pavers, retaining walls, coastal concrete |
| Not for | Limestone, marble, travertine, below-grade walls, coated surfaces, car washes |
| New concrete | Can go on concrete 14–28 days old |
What It Is / How It Works
Saltguard WB is a blend of silane and siloxane carried in water. Silanes are small molecules that soak deep into concrete pores. Siloxanes are slightly larger and help near the surface. Both react inside the substrate to line the pores with a water-repellent layer, without forming a coating on top. Liquid water and dissolved salts bead up and stay out, but water vapor can still escape. That “breathability” is why penetrating repellents don’t peel or trap moisture the way films can.
PROSOCO’s product data sheet lists 5% actives, VOC under 25 g/L, and alkaline stability, which means it tolerates the high pH of fresh concrete. PROSOCO also says it resists water penetration over shrinkage cracks of 0.02 inch or less. The water base lowers the fire and explosion risk compared with alcohol- or solvent-based repellents.
Where It Works Best (and where it doesn’t)
It’s a good fit for exterior concrete and masonry exposed to de-icing salts, freeze-thaw cycles or salt air: driveways, sidewalks, brick and concrete pavers, sandstone pavers, retaining walls and coastal structures. It can also go on dense surfaces like tightly troweled garage floors, using one light coat.
PROSOCO is clear about where it doesn’t belong. Don’t use it on limestone, marble, travertine or other calcareous stone. It’s not for surfaces under constant water spray, such as car washes. It shouldn’t go over coatings, previously applied repellents or liquid hardeners, and it’s not recommended below grade. It also won’t stop water coming through structural cracks, defects or open joints. If you’re comparing invisible sealers for flatwork, our best silane-siloxane concrete sealers guide covers more options.
Pros
- Penetrating, breathable, film-free; won’t peel
- Very low VOC (under 25 g/L), low odor, water-based
- Designed specifically to screen chlorides from de-icing salts and salt air
- Can be used on new concrete as early as 14–28 days
- Ready to use; no mixing
- Detailed, candid data sheet from an established professional brand
Cons
- Modest 5% active content
- Wide coverage range (50–300 sq ft/gal) makes estimating hard without a test
- Mostly sold through distributors and specialty suppliers, not big-box stores
- Not for limestone, marble, travertine or below-grade use
- Freezes at 32°F, so it must be stored and shipped carefully
- No oil or stain repellency, and no color enhancement
How to Apply It
- Prep the surface. Clean thoroughly and remove curing compounds and old sealers, which block penetration. Clean new or repointed masonry before treating. Slightly damp is acceptable, but dry, absorbent surfaces give the best results.
- Check temperatures. Surface and air should be at least 40°F during application and for 8 hours after, and no hotter than 95°F. On hot days, work on shaded surfaces before the afternoon peak. Thaw frozen masonry first.
- Test. Treat a representative area to confirm coverage, penetration and appearance before doing the whole job.
- Horizontal surfaces: apply one saturating coat. Keep the surface wet for 2–3 minutes, broom out puddles until they soak in, and wipe up excess. On dense troweled floors, apply just enough to wet the surface without puddles.
- Vertical surfaces: spray at under 50 psi from the bottom up, with a 4–8 inch rundown. Let it penetrate 5–10 minutes, then apply a second, lighter coat. With brush or roller, saturate evenly and brush out runs.
- Protect and cure. It’s dry to the touch in about an hour. Keep rain off for at least 6 hours and traffic off for 24. Repellency keeps improving for up to 14 days.
How It Compares
Versus PROSOCO Saltguard (solvent-based): PROSOCO makes a solvent-based Saltguard alongside the WB version. Saltguard WB is the lower-VOC, lower-odor, lower-fire-risk choice and is better suited where solvent products are restricted or unpleasant to use.
Versus Ghostshield Siloxa-Tek 8500: Siloxa-Tek 8500 is another water-based penetrating repellent, but it’s widely sold at big-box stores and online, while Saltguard WB is mostly a distributor product. Siloxa-Tek’s data sheet lists a higher maximum VOC (90 g/L) and two wet-on-wet coats as standard.
Versus acrylic sealers: acrylics add gloss, color and stain resistance, but they form a film that wears, can get slippery and may peel if moisture is trapped. Saltguard WB is the better pick when you want protection without changing the look. Our best driveway sealer guide covers both approaches.
FAQ
Is Saltguard WB the same as Consolideck Saltguard WB?
Yes. It was marketed under the Consolideck name and is now sold as PROSOCO Saltguard WB. It’s a different product from the solvent-based Saltguard.
Will Saltguard WB change how my concrete looks?
Applied correctly, no. It forms no film and keeps the natural appearance. PROSOCO notes that over-application or poor application can cause slight darkening or mottling, which is why a test area matters.
Can I use it on new concrete?
Yes. The data sheet says it’s alkaline stable and suitable for “green” concrete 14–28 days old. Remove any curing compound first.
Can I paint over it later?
Test first. PROSOCO says paint and coating compatibility must be tested, and adhesion of some cementitious coatings may be reduced.
Verdict
Saltguard WB is a solid, low-VOC penetrating repellent with a clear focus on salt and chloride protection, backed by one of the more transparent data sheets in the category. It’s best for homeowners or contractors who can buy from a masonry or concrete supplier and are willing to run a test patch. The modest active content and wide coverage range keep it from the top tier, but for invisible, breathable protection on salt-exposed flatwork it’s a dependable choice. You can read the details on PROSOCO’s Saltguard WB page. Our rating: 3.9/5
How we reviewed this product: this is a research-based review built from the manufacturer’s technical data sheet and current retail listings. We have not run our own hands-on tests of this product. Details were checked in October 2026; always follow the current label.
