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Eagle Natural Seal is a water-based silane/siloxane penetrating water repellent for exterior concrete and masonry, sold as EM5 in 5-gallon pails. It soaks in and leaves no visible film, so the concrete keeps its natural, unsealed look while water and salt bead off. It’s an easy, low-odor, budget-friendly option for driveways, walks, patios and brick. It won’t add shine or block oil stains, and you’ll need to reapply when water stops beading.
| Type | Penetrating water repellent |
| Chemistry | Water-based silane/siloxane; VOC under 100 g/L |
| Finish | Natural; no visible change to the surface |
| Coverage | About 200 sq ft/gal (about 1,000 sq ft per 5 gal), depending on porosity |
| Coats | One; two on very porous surfaces |
| Dry/recoat | Dry to touch in about 4 hours (retail listing); no rain for 12 hours |
| Cure | Label gives no full-cure time |
| Best for | Exterior driveways, sidewalks, patios, brick, block, precast, pervious concrete, mortar joints |
| Not for | Interior use, wet-look or color enhancement, oil-stain protection, slabs getting self-leveling underlayment |
| New concrete | Label doesn’t specify a wait. Seal only cured, clean, dry, sound concrete. |
What It Is / How It Works
Natural Seal is made by Eagle IFP Company. It’s still widely sold, mainly as model EM5 at Home Depot and Lowe’s. The formula combines a silane, which soaks into the concrete, with a siloxane that works near the surface. Together they line the pores with a water-repellent layer. Water beads up and rolls off instead of soaking in, which helps limit freeze-thaw and salt damage. Because there’s no film, the surface keeps its texture and traction and stays breathable.
Eagle doesn’t publish an active-solids percentage for Natural Seal, so it’s hard to compare directly with high-actives commercial silanes. Eagle also makes Natural Seal Plus, a fluoropolymer-based penetrating sealer that adds oil resistance. Its label lists foot traffic after 4 hours, vehicles after 72 hours and full properties in 5–7 days.
Where It Works Best (and where it doesn’t)
It’s a good fit for exterior concrete where you want protection without changing the look. That includes broom-finished driveways and sidewalks, patios, brick and block walls, precast and pervious concrete. It works on both horizontal and vertical surfaces.
It’s a poor fit if you want a wet look, a sheen or deeper color. It also doesn’t protect against oil, since it repels water only. In Eagle’s answers on Home Depot’s Q&A, Eagle says not to use it indoors or over limewash, and not on a slab that will get self-leveling underlayment, because it can interfere with bonding. Stained concrete can block absorption. Be aware that the label is inconsistent on previously sealed surfaces: the prep section allows a similar water-based sealer to stay, while the precautions say not to use it on a sealed surface. To be safe, apply it to bare concrete. See our best silane-siloxane sealers for alternatives.
Pros
- Invisible finish with no added slipperiness
- Helps protect against water, freeze-thaw and salt
- Good coverage, about 200 sq ft per gallon
- Water-based and low odor; cleans up with water
- Easy to spray; owners commonly report simple pump-sprayer application and good water beading
- Widely available and well reviewed at Home Depot
Cons
- Water repellent only; no oil or stain resistance
- Active-solids content isn’t published
- Exterior only, per Eagle
- Label is inconsistent about previously sealed surfaces
- Hot surfaces (over 90°F) can cause streaking
- Needs reapplication once water stops beading
How to Apply It
- Clean. Remove dirt, wax, grease, oil and other contaminants. Degrease oily areas with Eagle Cleaner Degreaser & Neutralizer and a bristle brush.
- Open slick surfaces. Etch smooth concrete with Eagle Etch & Clean so the sealer can soak in.
- Rinse and dry. Pressure-wash, then let the surface dry for 24 hours.
- Check conditions. Air and surface temperatures should be between 50°F and 90°F, with no rain expected within 12 hours. Avoid hot surfaces.
- Test. Treat a small area first, and protect glass and nearby surfaces from overspray.
- Apply. Don’t thin it. Use a pump-up or airless sprayer and back-roll or cross-roll with a short or medium nap roller for even coverage. Spray walls from the bottom up. Saturate the surface without puddling. One coat is typical, and very porous surfaces may need two.
- Clean up and maintain. If a white film forms, wash it with water, and scrub with a brush if it stays. Clean the sealed surface with water only, and reseal when it stops beading water.
How It Compares
Eagle Natural Seal Plus uses a fluoropolymer chemistry that adds oil resistance at the same roughly 200 sq ft per gallon. Its label says to apply it only to unsealed concrete cured at least 7 days. Pick it if driveway oil drips are a concern.
Sikagard-400 Enviroseal (formerly MasterProtect H 400) is a commercial 40% silane with published chloride and salt-scaling test data. It’s the stronger-documented choice for harsh winters, but it’s harder to buy at retail.
Eagle Satin Seal is a water-based acrylic film with a satin sheen and some oil resistance. Choose it if you want a light “sealed” look, and accept that the film wears and needs resealing. For more options, see our best driveway sealers.
FAQ
Does Eagle Natural Seal change the color of concrete?
Eagle says it doesn’t alter the appearance of the treated surface. Concrete keeps a dry, natural look with no gloss.
How long does Eagle Natural Seal last?
Eagle doesn’t give a set number of years. It says to reseal when the surface no longer beads water. Owner reports vary, and some say it held up well over a couple of winters. Sun, traffic and deicing salt all affect how long it lasts.
What happens if it rains after applying?
Eagle says not to apply it if rain is expected within 12 hours. If rain hits sooner, check for even water beading once the surface dries, and spot-treat any thin areas.
Can you use Eagle Natural Seal on pavers or brick?
Yes for brick, block, mortar joints and concrete. Those are all listed on the label. For concrete pavers, test a small area first, and remember it won’t add color enhancement.
Verdict
Eagle Natural Seal is a simple, affordable, easy-to-find penetrating water repellent. It protects exterior concrete and masonry without changing how they look, and it’s popular with homeowners for good reason. Its limits are that it repels water only, doesn’t publish an actives percentage and has a label that’s unclear about previously sealed surfaces. If oil stains or severe salt exposure are your main worry, look at Natural Seal Plus or a high-actives silane. Our rating: 4.0/5
How we reviewed this product: this is a research-based review built from the manufacturer’s technical data sheet and current retail listings. We have not run our own hands-on tests of this product. Details were checked in October 2026; always follow the current label.
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The BEHR waterproofer most homeowners mean when they talk about sealing a damp basement wall is the BEHR PREMIUM Basement & Masonry Waterproofer No. 875, now sold as BEHR DryPlus Masonry Waterproofer (still No. 875). Unlike BEHR’s clear No. 980 Protector & Waterproofer, this is a thick, paint-like acrylic coating for basement walls, retaining walls, block and stucco. The bottom line: it is a solid DIY option for walls that get damp or see minor seepage, but it is not a fix for active leaks or floors, and it hides the masonry under a flat painted finish.
| Type | Film-forming waterproofing coating (paint-like) |
| Chemistry | 100% styrene acrylic latex, about 45% solids by volume |
| Finish | Flat; white, Basement Gray or tinted colors |
| Coverage | 75–125 sq ft per gallon, depending on porosity and method |
| Coats | Two (first heavier, about 75 sq ft/gal; second about 125 sq ft/gal) |
| Dry/recoat | Touch dry 1 hour; recoat 4 hours (77°F, 50% RH) |
| Cure | 7–14 days; wait two weeks before washing |
| VOC | Under 100 g/L |
| Best for | Interior or exterior basement and retaining walls, block, brick, stucco, cement board |
| Not for | Floors; walls with active leaks; over existing oil or latex paint |
| New concrete | Wait at least 30 days |
What It Is / How It Works
This product has gone by a few names. Older cans read BEHR PREMIUM Basement & Masonry Waterproofer, later versions added “with NANOGUARD Technology,” and today it is sold as BEHR DryPlus Masonry Waterproofer. The product number, No. 875, has stayed the same, and a pre-mixed Basement Gray version is sold as No. 876.
It is a high-build styrene acrylic coating. Behr’s data sheet lists about 45% solids by volume and a first coat that goes on at roughly 21 mils wet. Behr says nano-sized particles fill the gaps between larger coating particles to create a tighter film. That film is what stops water: the data sheet lists 12 psi of hydrostatic pressure resistance (ASTM D7088), a pass on wind-driven rain testing and a water vapor permeance under 1 perm, which means it can act as a vapor barrier.
That last point is the key difference from a penetrating sealer. A clear repellent such as BEHR No. 980 lets the wall breathe and stays invisible. DryPlus sits on the surface, changes the look of the wall and blocks vapor. That is useful on the inside of a basement wall, but it also means moisture in the wall has to go somewhere, so outside drainage still matters. If you are comparing clear options for exterior concrete, see our best waterproofing concrete sealer guide.
Where It Works Best (and where it doesn’t)
Behr rates it for masonry, poured concrete, concrete block, cement board siding, brick and stucco, above or below grade, inside or outside. The typical use is the interior side of a poured or block basement wall that feels damp, shows efflorescence after rain or seeps a little at the bottom. It also works on exterior retaining walls and foundations, and it doubles as a block filler and primer on masonry with a pH up to 13.
It is not for floors, and Behr says not to use it on floors or walls with active water leaks. Holes and cracks below grade need to be patched with fast-setting hydraulic cement first. It also should not be applied over oil- or latex-based paint, so a previously painted basement wall usually needs the old paint removed. A coating can only resist so much: if water is pouring through a crack or the wall is pushing in, deal with grading, gutters, drainage or a structural repair before you paint anything.
Pros
- Rated to resist 12 psi of hydrostatic pressure
- High-build film fills pores in block and rough concrete
- Water-based, VOC under 100 g/L, water cleanup
- Tintable and mildew-resistant, with a flat decorative finish
- Fast recoat (4 hours) so two coats fit in one day
- Works as its own primer and block filler on masonry
Cons
- Low coverage (75–125 sq ft per gallon), so you need a lot of it
- Not for floors or walls with active leaks
- Cannot go over existing oil or latex paint
- Covers the masonry with a painted look; not invisible
- Acts as a vapor barrier, so it does not let the wall breathe like a penetrating sealer
- Full cure takes 7–14 days
How to Apply It
- Let new concrete cure at least 30 days. Press tape onto the wall and pull it off; if it lifts concrete, remove loose material down to a sound surface.
- Below grade, patch all holes and cracks with fast-setting hydraulic cement. Above grade, remove mildew with a mildew remover.
- Clean off dirt, dust, efflorescence and oil, using an acid etcher such as muriatic acid or mechanical cleaning. Remove old loose paint; do not apply over oil- or latex-based paint.
- Apply between 50°F and 90°F, out of direct sun and not on hot surfaces. Ventilate well indoors.
- Do not thin. Brush with a nylon/polyester brush, roll, or spray with an airless sprayer. Work the first coat into pores and pinholes at about 75 sq ft per gallon.
- After 4 hours (at 77°F and 50% humidity), apply the second coat at about 125 sq ft per gallon. Allow longer in cool or humid conditions.
- Let it cure 7–14 days, and wait two weeks before washing the surface.
How It Compares
BEHR PREMIUM Protector & Waterproofer No. 980: the clear, water-based silane/siloxane from the same brand. It soaks in and leaves no film, but Behr says it is not for areas under hydrostatic pressure. Use No. 980 for exterior flatwork and above-grade walls; use DryPlus for basement walls.
Other masonry waterproofing paints: several brands sell similar thick latex or cement-based basement coatings. Compare the hydrostatic pressure rating, coverage per gallon and whether the product can go over existing paint, since those are the specs that vary most.
Penetrating sealers for basements: silicate densifiers and silane/siloxane repellents work inside the concrete and do not peel, but they leave the wall looking bare. They suit owners who want to treat dampness without painting. Our guide to the best penetrating concrete sealers covers those.
FAQ
Is BEHR DryPlus the same as BEHR Basement & Masonry Waterproofer?
Yes. It carries the same No. 875 product number. Behr’s literature has used both names, and the current name is BEHR DryPlus Masonry Waterproofer.
Will it stop a leaking basement wall?
Not an active leak. Behr says not to use it on walls with active water leaks and to patch holes and cracks with hydraulic cement first. It is rated for 12 psi of hydrostatic pressure once properly applied over a sound, patched wall.
Can I put it on my basement floor?
No. Behr lists it as not for floors. Use a floor-rated coating, such as an epoxy or a penetrating sealer, instead.
Can I paint over it?
It is tintable, so most people simply pick a color and use it as the finish. Behr’s data sheet does not list a topcoat requirement. If you want a different color later, check the current label for compatible products.
Verdict
BEHR DryPlus No. 875 is a capable, widely available basement and masonry waterproofing paint with a published 12 psi rating, low VOC and easy water cleanup. It is a coating, not a cure-all: it needs bare, patched, clean masonry, it uses a lot of product, and it will not hold back active leaks. For a damp basement wall where you are fine with a painted finish, it is a reasonable DIY choice. Check the current label on Behr’s product page. Our rating: 3.8/5
How we reviewed this product: this is a research-based review built from the manufacturer’s technical data sheet and current retail listings. We have not run our own hands-on tests of this product. Details were checked in October 2026; always follow the current label.
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Affiliate disclosure: Some links on this page are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.
Thompson’s WaterSeal is the best-known name in clear waterproofers, and its current lineup includes the Waterproofer Plus Clear Multi-Surface Waterproofer (concrete, brick, masonry and wood) and the Clear Masonry Protector Waterproofer (masonry only). Both are easy, cheap-per-gallon products for homeowners who want water to bead on a patio, walkway or brick wall. The trade-off is that they are light-duty, need regular recoating and don’t publish much technical data.
| Type | Clear penetrating waterproofer (exterior only) |
| Chemistry | Not disclosed on product pages; applies milky white, dries clear, soap-and-water cleanup |
| Finish | Clear, natural look |
| Coverage | 50–375 sq. ft. per gallon, depending on porosity |
| Coats | Usually one light coat |
| Dry/recoat | Dry in 24–72 hours; recoat after 72 hours (Multi-Surface: 72 hours to 45 days) |
| Cure | Keep above 50°F for 48 hours after application |
| Application temp | Air and surface above 50°F; no rain for 24 hours |
| Best for | Patios, walkways, pavers, brick, stone and stucco |
| Not for | Below-grade walls with water pressure, painted or recently stained surfaces |
| New concrete | Wait at least 4 weeks |
| Sizes | Multi-Surface: quart to 6 gallon; Masonry Protector: 1, 1.2 and 5 gallon |
What It Is / How It Works
Thompson’s WaterSeal sells several clear waterproofers for wood and masonry. For concrete and masonry, the two relevant products today are:
- Clear Multi-Surface Waterproofer for concrete, brick, masonry and exterior wood.
- Clear Masonry Protector Waterproofer for pavers, brick, concrete, stone, stucco, and clay and quarry tile.
Both soak into the surface and leave a clear, water-beading finish. They go on milky white and dry clear, and wet tools clean up with soap and water. Thompson’s doesn’t list the active ingredients or solids content on its product pages, so it’s hard to compare their strength directly with silane/siloxane sealers that publish those numbers. Thompson’s says both products resist mildew and UV damage and help maintain the surface’s natural color.
Where It Works Best (and where it doesn’t)
These are good matches for a homeowner treating a patio, front walk, paver area or brick planter who wants an easy, one-coat job from a pump sprayer. The Multi-Surface version is handy if you’re also doing a wood fence or deck rail in the same weekend.
Thompson’s is clear about the limits: don’t use them below grade where water pressure is an issue, and don’t apply over painted or recently stained surfaces. They’re exterior-only. Lifespan also “varies by environment,” and Thompson’s asks you to splash test once a year to see if you need to reapply. Surfaces that face the sun and heavy foot traffic usually need it sooner. For driveways that see deicing salt and hot tires, a dedicated product from our best driveway sealers list is a better long-term buy.
Pros
- Widely sold and easy to find in hardware and home stores
- Simple one-coat application with a garden pump sprayer, brush or roller
- Dries clear and keeps the natural look of concrete and masonry
- Soap-and-water cleanup for wet product
- Multi-Surface version handles wood and masonry with one can
- Built-in splash test makes it easy to know when to reapply
Cons
- No published chemistry, solids or service-life data
- Needs regular recoating; Thompson’s recommends a yearly splash test
- Long dry time (24–72 hours) and a firm 50°F minimum for 48 hours after
- Can darken or turn tacky if nights drop below 50°F too soon
- Not for below-grade water pressure, painted or stained surfaces
- Smooth concrete must be etched first for the Multi-Surface product
How to Apply It
- Do the splash test. Sprinkle water on the surface. If it soaks in and darkens within about five seconds, it’s ready for treatment. If it beads, it doesn’t need protection yet.
- Make sure new concrete or stucco has cured at least 4 weeks and is dry. Thompson’s calls for etching smooth concrete before using the Multi-Surface product.
- Clean the surface and let it dry. After cleaning or rain, wait at least 72 hours for concrete, brick and masonry (48 hours for wood).
- Pick your weather. Air and surface must be above 50°F during application and for 48 hours after, with no rain in the forecast for 24 hours.
- Stir well and don’t thin it or mix it with other waterproofers. Cover plants and test a small patch first.
- Apply one light, even coat with a pump sprayer, brush or roller. Spread or wipe up any puddles within 15 minutes.
- Let it dry 24–72 hours. Recoat no sooner than 72 hours, and only if the splash test says a spot still absorbs water.
How It Compares
Seal-Krete Multi-Surface All-Purpose Water Repellent is a similar big-box, water-based product. Its data sheet is more detailed: 150–300 sq. ft. per gallon, recoat in a few hours and foot traffic in 24 hours. That faster turnaround is handy if your weather window is short.
Dedicated silane/siloxane penetrating sealers publish their active content, coverage and expected service life, and many are rated for driveways and deicing salts. They cost more per gallon, but the better ones state how long they’re designed to last, which makes it easier to plan recoats. Our best silane siloxane concrete sealers guide covers the stronger options.
Film-forming acrylic sealers add sheen or a wet look and resist stains better on patios, but they can peel and get slippery. If you want a natural look, a penetrating product like Thompson’s is the safer choice.
FAQ
Does Thompson’s WaterSeal work on concrete?
Yes. Both the Clear Multi-Surface Waterproofer and the Clear Masonry Protector are labeled for concrete. The Masonry Protector is the more focused choice if you’re only treating concrete, pavers, brick or stone.
How long does Thompson’s WaterSeal last on concrete?
Thompson’s doesn’t give a fixed number of years. It says lifespan varies by environment and recommends a splash test once a year. When water stops beading and soaks in, it’s time to reapply.
Can you paint over Thompson’s WaterSeal?
For the Clear Multi-Surface Waterproofer, Thompson’s says to wait 45 days before using latex paint and at least 3 days before oil-based paint.
Will it stop a leaking basement?
No. Thompson’s says not to use it below grade where water pressure is a problem. See our best waterproofing concrete sealers guide for products made for that job.
Verdict
Thompson’s WaterSeal clear waterproofers are fine for light-duty patios, walks and brick where you want a natural look and an easy weekend job. They’re easy to find and simple to use. Their long dry times, strict temperature rules, lack of published chemistry and need for frequent recoating keep them behind dedicated concrete sealers for driveways and high-exposure surfaces. Our rating: 3.2/5
How we reviewed this product: this is a research-based review built from the manufacturer’s technical data sheet and current retail listings. We have not run our own hands-on tests of this product. Details were checked in October 2026; always follow the current label.
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Affiliate disclosure: Some links on this page are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.
DRYLOK Original Concrete & Masonry Waterproofer is a thick, latex-based coating you brush or roll onto basement walls, foundations and other masonry to stop water seeping through. It’s one of the best-known DIY basement waterproofers, and it’s backed by a 10 psi hydrostatic pressure rating and a 10-year limited warranty. The bottom line: it works well on bare, properly prepared masonry walls, but it’s a wall paint, not a floor sealer, and it can’t fix cracks, drainage problems or water coming in at the floor joint on its own.
| Type | Film-forming masonry waterproofing coating |
| Chemistry | Latex base, about 66% solids by weight; rated below 1 perm |
| Finish | Flat, sandy texture; White or Gray, tintable to light shades |
| Coverage | First coat about 75 sq ft/gal; second coat 75–100 sq ft/gal |
| Coats | 2 minimum |
| Dry/recoat | Touch dry 1.5 hours; recoat in 2–3 hours |
| Cure | Can be topcoated with latex paint after 24 hours |
| Best for | Bare basement walls, foundations, block, brick, stucco, poured concrete walls |
| Not for | Floors or other horizontal surfaces with foot traffic; over existing paint |
| New concrete | Cure 28–30 days or until pH is below 10 |
What It Is / How It Works
DRYLOK Original is a heavy-bodied latex coating that fills the pores of masonry and forms a semi-impermeable film. It’s still sold under the same name. DRYLOK was originally a United Gilsonite Laboratories (UGL) brand and is now part of Sika, which publishes the current data sheet.
The key numbers from Sika’s data sheet: it’s rated for 10 psi of hydrostatic pressure, which DRYLOK describes as the equivalent of a 22-foot wall of water (tested to ASTM D7088). It also resisted wind-driven rain at 98 mph and is rated below 1 perm for vapor transmission. That low vapor rating is part of why it works on basement walls, and DRYLOK says it also reduces radon penetration by limiting vapor transfer.
Unlike a clear penetrating sealer, DRYLOK Original changes the look of the wall. It goes on like thick, gritty paint and dries to a flat white or gray finish. You can tint it lightly or topcoat it with latex paint after 24 hours.
Where It Works Best (and where it doesn’t)
It’s made for vertical masonry, interior or exterior, above or below grade: poured concrete foundation walls, cinder and concrete block, brick and stucco. It’s also used on fish ponds and non-potable tanks, per the data sheet. Typical uses are damp basement walls, block crawlspaces and foundation walls with seepage.
It isn’t for floors. Sika’s data sheet says plainly that it’s “not formulated for horizontal surfaces subject to foot traffic” and points to DRYLOK Floor & Wall instead. It shouldn’t go over existing paint, and doing so voids the warranty. It also won’t seal active cracks, holes or the joint where the wall meets the floor; DRYLOK says to patch those first with a hydraulic cement such as its Fast Plug. If water is pouring in from outside because of grading or gutters, a coating won’t solve that. For clear options on exterior slabs, see our best waterproofing concrete sealers.
Pros
- Rated for 10 psi hydrostatic pressure, high for a DIY coating
- 10-year limited warranty that transfers to later owners
- Water-based latex with soap-and-water cleanup
- Brightens basement walls and can be topcoated with latex paint
- Widely available and highly rated by buyers; owners commonly report drier basement walls after heavy rain
Cons
- Low coverage (75–100 sq ft per gallon per coat), so a basement takes a lot of product
- Must go on bare masonry; painted walls need stripping first
- Not for floors or other walked-on surfaces
- Thick, sandy-textured product that has to be brushed or back-brushed into the pores
- Warranty excludes recurring efflorescence and failures from poor prep
- Some owners report needing extra coats over patches or seeing it bleed through
How to Apply It
- Clean the wall. Remove dirt, dust, grease, oil, form release compound and paint. Take off any paint in poor condition. If you’re scraping old paint, use a NIOSH-approved respirator and HEPA vacuum in case of lead.
- Patch first. Fill holes, cracks and the floor/wall joint with a hydraulic cement such as DRYLOK Fast Plug.
- Remove efflorescence with an etching solution or muriatic acid. Smooth surfaces need acid etching or mechanical abrasion to a medium-sandpaper texture. For damp walls, DRYLOK recommends its Wet Wall Bonding Primer.
- Check conditions. Air and wall must be 50°F or warmer. Apply to a dry surface during a rain-free period, and test a small area first.
- Stir well and don’t thin. Keep stirring during use because the solids settle.
- Apply the first coat at about 75 sq ft per gallon with a DRYLOK brush, nylon brush or 3/4″ nap roller. If rolling, back-brush to push it into the pores.
- Apply the second coat after 2–3 hours at 75–100 sq ft per gallon. If any spots still leak, recoat them. You can paint over it with latex after 24 hours.
How It Compares
DRYLOK Extreme is a separate latex masonry waterproofer in the same family, sold alongside Original at home centers. If you’re choosing between them, compare the pressure rating, coverage and warranty on each current label rather than assuming they’re interchangeable.
Clear silane/siloxane water repellents such as Rust-Oleum OKON S-40 or Rainguard Micro-Seal keep the wall’s natural look and stay breathable. They’re great on exterior brick and block that gets rained on, but OKON’s own data sheet says S-40 doesn’t protect against hydrostatic pressure, so they aren’t a substitute for DRYLOK on a seeping basement wall.
Exterior excavation and membrane systems or interior drainage handle severe water problems that no coating can. If you have standing water or active leaks, talk to a basement waterproofing contractor first.
FAQ
Does DRYLOK really stop water?
On properly prepared bare masonry with two full coats, DRYLOK rates it to stop water up to 10 psi of hydrostatic pressure. It won’t stop water coming through unpatched cracks, the floor/wall joint or from poor drainage outside.
Can I use DRYLOK Original on a basement floor?
No. The data sheet says it isn’t formulated for horizontal surfaces with foot traffic. Use DRYLOK Floor & Wall or a floor-rated coating instead.
Can I put DRYLOK over painted walls?
DRYLOK’s warranty requires a bare surface, and applying over existing coatings voids it. Remove the paint first so the product can bond with the masonry.
How long does DRYLOK last?
It carries a 10-year limited warranty when two coats go on a properly prepared, bare vertical masonry surface. The warranty covers product replacement or a refund, not labor.
Verdict
DRYLOK Original remains a solid, affordable choice for damp basement and foundation walls. Its 10 psi rating, 10-year warranty and long track record set it apart from clear sealers. Success depends on prep: bare masonry, patched cracks, removed efflorescence and two full coats. Keep it off floors, and fix outside drainage problems first. Full details are on the DRYLOK product page. Our rating: 4.2/5
How we reviewed this product: this is a research-based review built from the manufacturer’s technical data sheet and current retail listings. We have not run our own hands-on tests of this product. Details were checked in October 2026; always follow the current label.
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Affiliate disclosure: Some links on this page are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.
Basements are the parts of our homes most vulnerable to damage from the elements. This damage frequently manifests itself in such problems as flooding, the excessive build-up of mold and/or mildew, and the passage of potentially harmful gases through the basement walls into your home. As the walls are typically just made of concrete rather than being insulated properly, your home is open to these sorts of problems. The best way to deal with these problems, of course, is to prevent them. Virtually all basements are constructed from concrete. Concrete, while incredibly strong, is also an extremely porous material. Beginning on its surface, concrete is filled with tiny pores and hairline cracks that extend throughout the material. While concrete is strong enough without any further treatment, it is not as strong and protective as it can be. Enter concrete sealers. Concrete sealers are products designed and manufactured to help protect the concrete surfaces of your homes. For a basement, the best option would be a penetrating concrete sealer. Sealers of this variety are applied to the surface of the concrete. Once applied, their small particles of protective sealant seep into the concrete through the tiny surface pores, continuing their passage via the pathways of pores and hairline cracks that are natural to concrete. However, once the sealant passes through these miniscule openings, the chemicals react with chemicals present within the concrete, permanently filling up the holes and cracks. This process not only protects your concrete from the passage of water or harmful gases into your home, but it also fundamentally strengthens the concrete. The concrete becomes denser, filled with more particles of calcium silicate hydrate (or CSH), a naturally occurring part of concrete with which the concrete sealer reacts chemically to increase. The best way to prevent damage to your concrete basement is to treat it early on with a quality penetrating concrete sealer. Our Take: We like this penetrating concrete waterproofer found at HomeDepot.com.