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Stone Technologies Concrete Sealer X-1 is a water-based, silicate penetrating densifier from a small Cleveland-area manufacturer, sold direct and through online marketplaces in sizes from a quart to 55 gallons. It is meant for homeowners and contractors who want to harden and tighten newer, undamaged concrete such as basement floors and walls, garage floors, driveways and sidewalks without changing the look. The bottom line: it is an affordable, odorless, no-VOC densifier with a reasonable spec sheet, but some marketing claims (waterproofing against hydrostatic pressure, radon mitigation, 4-inch penetration) go beyond what a silicate treatment can be counted on to do, and independent data is thin.
| Type | Penetrating densifier/hardener |
| Chemistry | Water-based silicate; no VOCs, solvent-free |
| Finish | Natural (no film); slight darkening possible |
| Coverage | About 200–400 sq ft/gal depending on porosity |
| Coats | 2, applied 2–4 hours apart |
| Dry/recoat | 2–4 hours between coats |
| Cure | 24–48 hours, protected from rain |
| Best for | Concrete under about 10 years old with no damage: basements, garages, driveways, walks |
| Not for | Old, damaged or very porous concrete (maker suggests X-2); check with maker on decorative, colored or stamped concrete |
| New concrete | Not specified by the maker; contact them |
Watch: Stone Technologies X-1 in 60 seconds
What It Is / How It Works
X-1 is still sold under the same name. Stone Technologies' product page now describes it as a silicate-based concrete densifier and hardener, and marketplace listings call it "Silicate Based Concrete Sealer X-1, Densifier & Hardener."
Silicate densifiers work chemically rather than by forming a coating. The silicate soaks into the pores of the concrete and reacts with the free lime (calcium hydroxide) left over from the cement to form additional calcium silicate hydrate, the same hard binder that holds concrete together. The result is a denser, harder surface that dusts less, absorbs less water and resists abrasion better. Nothing sits on top, so there is nothing to peel, and the surface stays breathable.
Stone Technologies says X-1 penetrates up to 4 inches, reduces radon gas penetration, and waterproofs floors, walls and block against hydrostatic pressure, with a guarantee for the life of the concrete. Treat those as manufacturer claims. Silicates reduce permeability, but real penetration depth depends heavily on the concrete, and an active basement leak or high water table usually needs drainage or crack repair, not just a sealer. Radon mitigation should be confirmed with testing.
Where It Works Best (and where it doesn't)
The maker positions X-1 as a preventive treatment for concrete less than about 10 years old with no signs of damage. Good candidates include basement floors and walls that are slightly damp or dusty, garage and shop floors that shed dust, and driveways, sidewalks and block walls where you want added density before freeze-thaw and salt take a toll. Because it is odorless and solvent-free, it is easy to use indoors.
For older, spalled, pitted or very porous concrete and block structures, Stone Technologies steers buyers to its stronger X-2 instead. It also asks customers to call before using X-1 on decorative, colored, stamped or exposed-aggregate concrete. X-1 does not add gloss or stain resistance the way a film sealer does, and it is not a water repellent in the beading sense. For that, pair or compare it with a silane/siloxane product. See our best penetrating concrete sealers guide.
One practical plus: the maker says it is paintable after curing, and epoxy or adhesives can go over it after a mild etch. That makes it a reasonable base treatment before a later coating.
Pros
- No VOCs, no solvents, odorless and non-flammable
- Penetrating: no film to peel, natural appearance, breathable
- Hardens and dustproofs the surface
- Can be painted or coated later (epoxy after a mild etch)
- Wide size range, from 1 quart to 55 gallons
- Simple spray or roller application
Cons
- Some claims (4-inch penetration, waterproofing against hydrostatic pressure, radon reduction) are not independently verified
- Little published technical data: no application temperature range or new-concrete guidance on the product page
- Not intended for older or damaged concrete (the maker points to X-2)
- Does not make water bead or add stain resistance like a repellent or film sealer
- Sold mainly direct and through online marketplaces, so it is harder to pick up locally
- Rain within 24–48 hours of application is a problem
How to Apply It
- Clean the concrete. Remove oil, dust, dirt and standing water. Old coatings or sealers will block penetration.
- Do the water test. Drop water on the surface. It should soak in within 20–30 seconds. If it beads, etch first (the maker sells an Eco Concrete Etcher), rinse and let dry.
- Check the forecast. You need 24–48 hours without rain after application. The maker gives no temperature range, so follow the label and avoid freezing conditions and hot, direct sun that makes the product evaporate before it soaks in.
- Apply the first coat with a low-pressure sprayer or a medium-nap roller until the surface is evenly wet, without puddles.
- Apply the second coat 2–4 hours later.
- Let it cure 24–48 hours, protected from rain. If you plan to paint or apply epoxy later, mildly etch first, per the maker.
How It Compares
Stone Technologies X-2. The maker's stronger version for older, damaged, porous concrete and block structures. Choose X-2 if your concrete is already pitting or scaling.
Other sodium silicate densifiers. Products such as Euclid EUCOSIL and W. R. Meadows Liqui-Hard use similar chemistry and publish fuller technical data sheets, which makes it easier to check coverage and application limits before you buy.
Silane/siloxane water repellents. These do not harden concrete, but they make water bead and are the standard choice for keeping water and deicing salt out of driveways. Many owners use a densifier first and a repellent on top. See our best silane-siloxane concrete sealers.
FAQ
Will Stone Technologies X-1 stop a leaking basement?
The maker says it waterproofs against hydrostatic pressure. In practice, silicates reduce how much moisture moves through sound concrete, but they do not seal cracks or fix drainage. Repair cracks and address grading and gutters first, and treat X-1 as one layer of defense.
Does X-1 change the look of concrete?
It leaves a natural, non-glossy finish and does not yellow. Like most penetrating treatments, it may darken the surface slightly. Test a small spot first.
Can you paint or epoxy over X-1?
According to Stone Technologies, yes. It is paintable after it cures, and epoxy or adhesives can be applied after a mild etch.
What is the difference between X-1 and X-2?
X-1 is the preventive version for newer, undamaged concrete. X-2 is the stronger version for older, damaged or more porous concrete and concrete block.
Verdict
Stone Technologies X-1 is a sensible, low-cost, odorless densifier for newer concrete that you want to harden and dustproof without changing its look. It is not a magic waterproofing fix, and the published data is thinner than from the big brands. Buy it as a densifier, not as a basement-leak cure, and add a water repellent if you need beading protection. Our rating: 3.5/5.
See the manufacturer's product page
How we reviewed this product: this is a research-based review built from the manufacturer's technical data sheet and current retail listings. We have not run our own hands-on tests of this product. Details were checked in October 2026; always follow the current label.
Where to Buy
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Affiliate disclosure: Some links on this page are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.
EUCOSIL from Euclid Chemical is a water-based sodium silicate densifier and dustproofer for interior and exterior concrete floors. It’s a straightforward, low-VOC, ready-to-use product for warehouses, schools, offices and similar floors where you want a harder, less dusty slab without a coating. It works well when applied carefully, but excess material turns into white residue, and it’s not a stain sealer.
| Type | Penetrating densifier / dustproofer (non-film) |
| Chemistry | Water-based sodium silicate |
| Finish | Appearance unchanged once cured; slight water beading |
| Coverage | 150–600 sq. ft. per gallon (about 200 rough, 300 fine texture, 400 hard troweled on new bare concrete) |
| Coats | One; extra coats only on absorbent surfaces |
| Dry/traffic | 4–6 hours to foot traffic or rain; 24 hours to wheel traffic (70°F) |
| VOC | 5 g/L or less |
| Best for | Warehouse, school, office and food storage floors; polished concrete; floors to be tiled |
| Not for | Oil or stain protection; surfaces with sealers or curing compounds |
| New concrete | Cure at least 7 days, remove curing method, air dry 24 hours |
| Packaging | 5-gallon pail, 55-gallon drum, 275-gallon tote |
Watch: EUCOSIL in 60 seconds
What It Is / How It Works
EUCOSIL is a liquid sodium silicate. When it soaks into concrete, it reacts chemically with the cement paste and becomes part of the surface, filling pores with additional hardened material. Euclid says it "seals, densifies, and dustproofs in one operation." The result is a harder floor that sheds less dust, cleans up more easily and slightly beads water.
Because it's not a film, there's nothing to peel or wear off. Euclid notes the concrete darkens right after application and then lightens as it cures and dries, ending up looking the same as before. It's ready to use with no mixing or dilution, odorless, and has a VOC content of 5 g/L or less. Euclid also lists it as Canadian Food Inspection Agency compliant, which helps in food storage areas.
EUCOSIL is still a current Euclid Chemical product, sold through concrete supply houses in pails, drums and totes.
Where It Works Best (and where it doesn't)
Euclid aims it at interior and exterior horizontal concrete: schools, hospitals, offices, apartment buildings, warehouse floors, food storage areas and diamond-polished concrete. It's also a fit for dusting concrete and terrazzo, and for floors that will be tiled later, since Euclid says it can be tiled over.
It's less suited to jobs where you need stain or oil resistance, like a garage floor that sees drips, or a patio that needs strong water repellency. Densifiers harden; they don't block oil. For those, pair it with a sealer or choose one from our best penetrating concrete sealers. For new construction that needs serious abrasion resistance, Euclid itself suggests a dry-shake floor hardener instead.
Pros
- Hardens and dustproofs in one step, with no film to peel
- Ready to use, odorless and very low VOC (5 g/L or less)
- Doesn't change the appearance once cured
- Can be tiled over
- Detailed coverage table for different surface textures
- Two-year shelf life unopened; water cleanup
Cons
- Excess left on the surface forms white residue that may need grinding or sanding
- Needs to be scrubbed in; it's more work than spray-and-walk-away
- No real oil or stain resistance
- Overspray must be washed off glass, metal, wood, paint and brick right away
- Smallest size is a 5-gallon pail
- Curing compounds and sealers must be fully removed first
How to Apply It
- On new concrete, wet cure or sheet cure (or use a removable curing compound) for at least 7 days. Remove the curing method and any laitance, then let the slab air dry at least 24 hours.
- On existing concrete, remove curing compounds, sealers, paint, coatings, dirt, oil and wax. Euclid suggests its EUCO CLEAN & STRIP if needed.
- Protect metal, glass, wood, paint and brick. Have clean water ready to rinse overspray.
- Don't dilute. Apply in a continuous film and scrub it into the surface.
- Brush out puddles and runs immediately. All the product should soak in.
- Add extra coats only on absorbent areas. If later coats stop soaking in, stop and squeegee or vacuum the excess before it dries.
- Keep foot traffic and rain off for 4–6 hours at 70°F and wheel traffic off for 24 hours. Protect the product from freezing in storage.
How It Compares
Sikafloor-956 Formula One LD RTU is a lithium silicate densifier. It's walkable and ready to polish in about an hour and is built around polishing work, while EUCOSIL takes 4–6 hours before foot traffic. Both are non-film densifiers that still need a separate sealer for stain protection.
Super-Krete S1300 Pene-Krete is a zero-VOC, spray-only penetrating densifier that's marketed more as a moisture-reducing primer under coatings. It publishes less technical data than EUCOSIL.
Silane/siloxane sealers don't harden the surface, but they give much stronger water and salt repellency on driveways, walks and patios. Many homeowners are better served by one of those, or by a combination of densifier and repellent. See our best concrete sealers for 2026.
FAQ
Is EUCOSIL waterproof?
No. Euclid says it resists water penetration and treated concrete beads water slightly, but it's a densifier, not a waterproofing product. It won't stop water under pressure or seal cracks.
How do I get rid of white residue from EUCOSIL?
Scrub it off immediately while it's still wet. Once dried, Euclid says the residue may need grinding or sanding to remove. The best fix is prevention: work the product in and don't leave puddles.
Can you tile over EUCOSIL?
Yes. Euclid lists tile-over capability as a feature and gives a coverage rate of about 500 sq. ft. per gallon for rough floors that will be tiled.
Can I use EUCOSIL in my garage?
Yes, to harden and dustproof the slab. For oil and tire marks, add a sealer or coating; see our best epoxy floor coatings if you want full protection.
Verdict
EUCOSIL is a well-documented, very low-VOC sodium silicate densifier that does a good job hardening and dustproofing concrete floors. Its weak spots are typical of sodium silicates: you have to scrub it in and manage the excess to avoid white residue, and it provides only light water resistance. For dusty commercial or basement floors, it's a sensible, no-frills choice. Our rating: 3.9/5
How we reviewed this product: this is a research-based review built from the manufacturer's technical data sheet and current retail listings. We have not run our own hands-on tests of this product. Details were checked in October 2026; always follow the current label.
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Affiliate disclosure: Some links on this page are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.
H&C ClariShield Water-Based Wet Look Sealer is a clear, high-gloss acrylic from Sherwin-Williams’ H&C decorative concrete line, made to deepen color and add shine to patios, walkways, stained concrete and masonry without the fumes of a solvent sealer. It suits homeowners who want a glossy look with soap-and-water cleanup and are willing to apply thin coats carefully. The bottom line: a solid low-odor gloss sealer for decorative surfaces, but it is a thin film that wears and needs recoating, and Sherwin-Williams now says it is not recommended for garage floors.
| Type | Film-forming topical sealer |
| Chemistry | 100% acrylic, water-based, solvent-free |
| Finish | High gloss, wet look; non-yellowing |
| Coverage | Varies with porosity; Sherwin-Williams’ regional data sheet lists roughly 100–190 sq ft per gallon per coat on bare concrete floors, more on previously coated concrete |
| Coats | 2 (second coat crosswise); very porous surfaces may need a third |
| Dry/recoat | Goes on milky, dries clear in about 1 hour |
| Cure | Foot traffic after about 24 hours; heavy traffic after 72–96 hours (regional data sheet) |
| Best for | Patios, walkways, pool decks, stained or painted concrete, block and stucco |
| Not for | Garage floors (per current product page), immersion, chemical exposure |
| New concrete | Wait at least 28 days |
Watch: H&C ClariShield Wet Look in 60 seconds
What It Is / How It Works
This product used to be sold as H&C Concrete Sealer Wet Look Water-Based. It is now sold as H&C ClariShield Water-Based Wet Look Sealer (gloss, clear base, not tintable) in 1- and 5-gallon sizes through Sherwin-Williams stores. The formula and purpose are the same: a 100% clear acrylic resin carried in water.
Like every acrylic "wet look" sealer, it does not soak deep into the concrete. It forms a thin clear film on top. That film darkens and enriches the color underneath, adds gloss, and blocks water, salt, oil and many household stains from reaching the surface. Sherwin-Williams describes the formula as crystal clear, non-yellowing and UV resistant. It goes on milky white and turns clear as the water evaporates, which makes it easy to see where you have already rolled.
Because it is water-based, it has low odor and cleans up with soap and water. The trade-off is typical for water-based acrylics: the film is generally not as deep or glossy as a solvent-based acrylic, and it is less forgiving of heavy coats. If you want a penetrating product that leaves no film at all, see our guide to the best penetrating concrete sealers.
Where It Works Best (and where it doesn't)
ClariShield Water-Based Wet Look is at its best on decorative concrete that you want to look richer: stained or dyed patios, colored walkways, pool decks, exposed block and stucco walls. H&C positions it as a topcoat over its water-based solid color concrete stains, and it can go over previously painted or stained concrete after proper scuffing and cleaning. It is rated for interior and exterior use and for vertical surfaces.
There is one point of confusion worth flagging. Older H&C literature listed garage floors and parking garages among its uses. Sherwin-Williams' current product page says it is not recommended for garage floors, and the regional data sheet says it is not recommended for parking floors. Hot tires and constant vehicle traffic are hard on any thin acrylic. For a garage, look at a coating built for it, such as those in our best epoxy floor coatings guide.
It is also not designed for immersion or areas with constant chemical exposure. Any high-gloss film can get slick when wet, so on pool decks, steps and ramps H&C recommends mixing in its Shark Grip slip-resistant additive.
Pros
- Low odor, solvent-free, soap-and-water cleanup
- High-gloss wet look that brings out stain and color
- Non-yellowing, UV-resistant acrylic
- Goes on milky and dries clear, so missed spots are easy to see
- Works over H&C water-based stains and previously painted concrete
- Interior, exterior and vertical use
Cons
- Thin surface film that wears in traffic areas and needs periodic recoating
- Not recommended for garage floors on the current product page
- Over-application can cause blushing (cloudy, whitish patches)
- Can be slippery when wet without an anti-slip additive
- Etching and a pH check are part of the prep on bare concrete
How to Apply It
- Wait on new concrete. Let fresh concrete cure at least 28 days.
- Clean. Remove dirt, laitance, oil, grease and mildew. For mildew, H&C suggests 1 cup of household bleach per gallon of water (no ammonia or detergents). On painted or stained concrete, scrape and sand anything loose, scuff-sand the rest and degrease.
- Etch bare concrete. Etch until the surface feels like 120-grit sandpaper, rinse, and wait 24 hours. Prepared concrete should test between pH 6 and 10.
- Check the weather. Air and surface temperatures must be between 50°F and 95°F, should not drop below 40°F for 24 hours afterward, and no rain should be expected for 12 hours.
- Test a small area for adhesion and appearance. Do not thin the product.
- Apply a thin first coat with a synthetic 1/4" to 3/8" nap roller, brushing edges and corners. If you spray (airless, 0.013"–0.017" tip), back-roll to remove excess.
- Apply a second thin coat crosswise once the first has dried clear. Very porous concrete may take a third. Avoid puddles, which are the main cause of blushing.
- Let it cure. Keep foot traffic off for about a day and heavier use off for several days.
How It Compares
H&C ClariShield Solvent-Based Wet Look. The solvent version in the same family is the choice if you want the deeper, glassier look solvent acrylics are known for, but it has strong fumes and needs solvent cleanup. Choose the water-based version for low odor or partly enclosed areas.
BEHR Premium Wet-Look Sealer (No. 985). Also a water-based high-gloss acrylic, sold at Home Depot. It lists 200–450 sq ft per gallon, with a similar thin-film profile. The two are close. Pick based on availability and whether you are also using H&C stains.
Penetrating silane/siloxane sealers. If you care more about water and salt protection than shine, a penetrating repellent will not change the look, will not peel and lasts longer. You give up the wet look. See our best concrete sealers for 2026 roundup for both styles.
FAQ
Can you use H&C ClariShield Water-Based Wet Look on a garage floor?
Sherwin-Williams' current product page says it is not recommended for garage floors, even though older literature listed them. Hot tires and constant vehicle traffic wear thin acrylic films quickly. A garage coating is the better choice.
Why did my ClariShield sealer turn white or cloudy?
The usual causes are applying too heavily, sealing damp concrete, or cool, humid conditions that slow drying. H&C specifically warns that over-application can cause blushing. Thin coats on fully dry concrete within the temperature window are the fix.
Can it go over stained or painted concrete?
Yes. It is designed as a topcoat for H&C water-based stains and can go over previously painted or stained concrete that is sound, scuff-sanded and clean. Give fresh stain or paint its full cure time first and test a small area.
Is it slippery?
Any high-gloss film can be slick when wet. H&C recommends adding its Shark Grip slip-resistant additive on inclined or damp surfaces such as ramps, steps and pool decks.
Verdict
H&C ClariShield Water-Based Wet Look is a dependable, low-odor way to add gloss and color depth to patios, walkways and stained concrete. It rewards careful prep and thin coats, and it punishes heavy application with cloudiness. It is not a garage-floor product and not a long-term waterproofer, so plan on recoating every few years. Our rating: 3.7/5.
See the manufacturer's product page and data sheets
How we reviewed this product: this is a research-based review built from the manufacturer's technical data sheet and current retail listings. We have not run our own hands-on tests of this product. Details were checked in October 2026; always follow the current label.
Related Guides
Affiliate disclosure: Some links on this page are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.
Seal-Krete Original is a water-based acrylic waterproofing primer/sealer for above-grade concrete, block, brick and stucco walls. It is inexpensive, low odor and easy to brush, roll or spray, and it doubles as a primer under paint. Bottom line: a useful wall sealer and primer, but despite the “waterproofing” name it is not a basement-wall or below-grade fix, and it is not designed as a stand-alone driveway or floor sealer.
| Type | Waterproofing primer/sealer (thin film-forming) |
| Chemistry | Water-based proprietary acrylic resin, 10% solids; low VOC (under 50 g/L) |
| Finish | Goes on milky white, dries clear with a satin look |
| Coverage | 80–300 sq ft/gal depending on porosity (about 175 on concrete slab/tilt-up, 125 on brick, 80 on concrete block); second coat needs about 50% more |
| Coats | Minimum two; two are required to waterproof bare vertical concrete |
| Dry/recoat | Dry in 2–4 hours; recoat after 2 hours |
| Cure | Not stated; no rain for 12 hours, temps must stay above 50°F for 24 hours |
| Best for | Above-grade vertical masonry and stucco; priming before latex, oil or elastomeric paint |
| Not for | Below-grade walls, hydrostatic pressure, pools and water features, very porous block, cedar or redwood |
| New concrete | No cure wait stated on the data sheet; it is marketed for buffering pH on “hot” cement before painting |
Watch: Seal-Krete Original in 60 seconds
What It Is / How It Works
Seal-Krete is a Rust-Oleum brand, and this product is the line's long-running "Original." It is still sold in 2026, labeled as Seal-Krete Original Waterproofing Primer/Sealer (Home Depot lists the 1-gallon as "Clear Original Waterproofing Concrete Sealer," model 100001). If you read our older review under the simpler name "Seal Krete Waterproofing Sealer," this is the same product.
It is a low-solids acrylic: about 10% solids by the data sheet. The liquid soaks into the surface pores and dries into a thin, clear acrylic film that sheds rain and binds dusty or chalky surfaces. Because it is so thin, it works more like a sealing primer than a heavy coating. That is why Rust-Oleum lists so many side uses: rejuvenating old brick and plaster, binding chalky surfaces, priming vinyl siding, dustproofing and priming floors, and even adding 4–8 oz per gallon to latex paint to improve spread. Once dry, it can be topcoated with latex, oil-based or elastomeric coatings.
It is not a penetrating silane/siloxane water repellent. Those react inside the pores and leave the surface looking untreated and fully breathable. Seal-Krete Original leaves a film you can see as a slight satin sheen, which also means it can wear, and it can eventually need recoating.
Where It Works Best (and where it doesn't)
Rust-Oleum is clear on scope: the product is for above-grade vertical surfaces, or as a primer on horizontal surfaces. Good jobs include exterior concrete or stucco walls, brick, tilt-up panels, garden walls and chimneys where you want to cut down on water soak-in, and any masonry you plan to paint and want primed first.
Where it falls short is where many homeowners first reach for it. The label says not for below-grade use and not where hydrostatic pressure is likely, so it is not the answer for a basement wall that weeps or a foundation that takes on groundwater. It is also not for pools, bird baths or water features. On very porous surfaces such as low-density decorative block, Rust-Oleum points you to Seal-Krete Heavy-Duty Waterproofer (25% solids) instead. And while you can use it to dustproof or prime a floor, it is not built as a driveway or garage-floor sealer; Seal-Krete sells separate products for that job.
Pros
- Inexpensive and easy to find at Home Depot, Lowe's and hardware stores
- Water-based, low odor, low VOC, soap-and-water cleanup
- Doubles as a primer under latex, oil-based and elastomeric paint
- Fast: recoat in 2 hours, dry in 2–4 hours
- Binds chalky or dusty masonry before painting
- Brush, roll or spray, no dilution needed
Cons
- Not for below-grade walls or anywhere with hydrostatic pressure
- Low solids (10%), so it needs at least two coats and protection is modest
- Film-forming: adds a satin look and is less breathable than a silane/siloxane
- Not designed as a stand-alone floor, driveway or garage sealer
- Coverage drops sharply on block (about 80 sq ft/gal)
- Weather-sensitive: needs 12 rain-free hours and temps above 50°F for 24 hours
How to Apply It
- Confirm it's the right job. Above-grade wall, no active leaks, no groundwater pressure. If water is coming through a basement wall from outside, fix drainage and use a below-grade-rated product instead.
- Prep the surface. Clean off dirt, loose paint, efflorescence and excess chalk, repair cracks, and let the surface dry.
- Check the forecast. Don't apply if rain is expected within 12 hours or if temperatures will drop below 50°F within 24 hours.
- Apply straight from the can. Do not dilute. Brush, roll or spray; if you spray, back-roll so it works into the pores. Wipe overspray off glass and trim right away with water.
- Second coat. Wait at least 2 hours and apply a second coat. Plan on about 50% more material for that coat. Two coats are required to waterproof bare vertical concrete.
- Paint if desired. Once dry (typically 2–4 hours), you can topcoat with latex, oil-based or elastomeric paint.
How It Compares
Seal-Krete Heavy-Duty Concrete & Masonry Waterproofer is the same brand's thicker (25% solids) acrylic for porous block, split-face block and stucco. Choose it over the Original when the surface drinks product fast. It is also limited to above-grade vertical surfaces.
Penetrating silane/siloxane water repellents leave no film and no sheen, stay fully breathable and are the usual choice when you want masonry to look untouched while shedding water. They don't prime for paint the way Seal-Krete does. See our best silane/siloxane sealers for options.
Masonry waterproofing paints such as DRYLOK or Seal-Krete's own DampLock are thick, pigmented coatings aimed at interior basement walls with dampness. They hide the masonry but resist more moisture than a clear acrylic primer. Our best waterproofing concrete sealers guide covers the category.
FAQ
Is Seal-Krete Original really waterproof?
It makes above-grade masonry shed rain and absorb far less water when two coats are applied, but it is not rated for below-grade walls or hydrostatic pressure. It won't stop water being pushed through a foundation wall from the soil side.
Can I use Seal-Krete Original on basement walls?
Not as a waterproofer. The data sheet excludes below-grade use and areas where hydrostatic pressure is likely. For damp interior basement walls, look at a masonry waterproofing paint and, more importantly, fix the outside drainage.
Can you paint over Seal-Krete Original?
Yes. It is designed as a primer, and Rust-Oleum says it can be topcoated with latex, oil-based or elastomeric coatings once it is dry.
Can I use it on my driveway or garage floor?
Only as a dustproofer or primer on horizontal surfaces. It isn't built to be the wear surface on a driveway. For that job, see our best driveway sealers.
Verdict
Seal-Krete Original is a cheap, easy, low-odor acrylic that does two jobs well: sealing above-grade masonry against rain and priming it for paint. Its name oversells it, though. It is not a basement or below-grade waterproofer, its low solids mean modest protection, and it is not meant to be a driveway or floor sealer. Use it on the right wall and it is good value; use it to fix a leaking foundation and you'll be disappointed.
Our rating: 3.4/5
How we reviewed this product: this is a research-based review built from the manufacturer's technical data sheet and current retail listings. We have not run our own hands-on tests of this product. Details were checked in October 2026; always follow the current label.
Where to Buy
Related Guides
Affiliate disclosure: Some links on this page are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.
Eagle Natural Seal is a water-based silane/siloxane penetrating water repellent for exterior concrete and masonry, sold as EM5 in 5-gallon pails. It soaks in and leaves no visible film, so the concrete keeps its natural, unsealed look while water and salt bead off. It’s an easy, low-odor, budget-friendly option for driveways, walks, patios and brick. It won’t add shine or block oil stains, and you’ll need to reapply when water stops beading.
| Type | Penetrating water repellent |
| Chemistry | Water-based silane/siloxane; VOC under 100 g/L |
| Finish | Natural; no visible change to the surface |
| Coverage | About 200 sq ft/gal (about 1,000 sq ft per 5 gal), depending on porosity |
| Coats | One; two on very porous surfaces |
| Dry/recoat | Dry to touch in about 4 hours (retail listing); no rain for 12 hours |
| Cure | Label gives no full-cure time |
| Best for | Exterior driveways, sidewalks, patios, brick, block, precast, pervious concrete, mortar joints |
| Not for | Interior use, wet-look or color enhancement, oil-stain protection, slabs getting self-leveling underlayment |
| New concrete | Label doesn’t specify a wait. Seal only cured, clean, dry, sound concrete. |
Watch: Eagle Natural Seal in 60 seconds
What It Is / How It Works
Natural Seal is made by Eagle IFP Company. It's still widely sold, mainly as model EM5 at Home Depot and Lowe's. The formula combines a silane, which soaks into the concrete, with a siloxane that works near the surface. Together they line the pores with a water-repellent layer. Water beads up and rolls off instead of soaking in, which helps limit freeze-thaw and salt damage. Because there's no film, the surface keeps its texture and traction and stays breathable.
Eagle doesn't publish an active-solids percentage for Natural Seal, so it's hard to compare directly with high-actives commercial silanes. Eagle also makes Natural Seal Plus, a fluoropolymer-based penetrating sealer that adds oil resistance. Its label lists foot traffic after 4 hours, vehicles after 72 hours and full properties in 5–7 days.
Where It Works Best (and where it doesn't)
It's a good fit for exterior concrete where you want protection without changing the look. That includes broom-finished driveways and sidewalks, patios, brick and block walls, precast and pervious concrete. It works on both horizontal and vertical surfaces.
It's a poor fit if you want a wet look, a sheen or deeper color. It also doesn't protect against oil, since it repels water only. In Eagle's answers on Home Depot's Q&A, Eagle says not to use it indoors or over limewash, and not on a slab that will get self-leveling underlayment, because it can interfere with bonding. Stained concrete can block absorption. Be aware that the label is inconsistent on previously sealed surfaces: the prep section allows a similar water-based sealer to stay, while the precautions say not to use it on a sealed surface. To be safe, apply it to bare concrete. See our best silane-siloxane sealers for alternatives.
Pros
- Invisible finish with no added slipperiness
- Helps protect against water, freeze-thaw and salt
- Good coverage, about 200 sq ft per gallon
- Water-based and low odor; cleans up with water
- Easy to spray; owners commonly report simple pump-sprayer application and good water beading
- Widely available and well reviewed at Home Depot
Cons
- Water repellent only; no oil or stain resistance
- Active-solids content isn't published
- Exterior only, per Eagle
- Label is inconsistent about previously sealed surfaces
- Hot surfaces (over 90°F) can cause streaking
- Needs reapplication once water stops beading
How to Apply It
- Clean. Remove dirt, wax, grease, oil and other contaminants. Degrease oily areas with Eagle Cleaner Degreaser & Neutralizer and a bristle brush.
- Open slick surfaces. Etch smooth concrete with Eagle Etch & Clean so the sealer can soak in.
- Rinse and dry. Pressure-wash, then let the surface dry for 24 hours.
- Check conditions. Air and surface temperatures should be between 50°F and 90°F, with no rain expected within 12 hours. Avoid hot surfaces.
- Test. Treat a small area first, and protect glass and nearby surfaces from overspray.
- Apply. Don't thin it. Use a pump-up or airless sprayer and back-roll or cross-roll with a short or medium nap roller for even coverage. Spray walls from the bottom up. Saturate the surface without puddling. One coat is typical, and very porous surfaces may need two.
- Clean up and maintain. If a white film forms, wash it with water, and scrub with a brush if it stays. Clean the sealed surface with water only, and reseal when it stops beading water.
How It Compares
Eagle Natural Seal Plus uses a fluoropolymer chemistry that adds oil resistance at the same roughly 200 sq ft per gallon. Its label says to apply it only to unsealed concrete cured at least 7 days. Pick it if driveway oil drips are a concern.
Sikagard-400 Enviroseal (formerly MasterProtect H 400) is a commercial 40% silane with published chloride and salt-scaling test data. It's the stronger-documented choice for harsh winters, but it's harder to buy at retail.
Eagle Satin Seal is a water-based acrylic film with a satin sheen and some oil resistance. Choose it if you want a light "sealed" look, and accept that the film wears and needs resealing. For more options, see our best driveway sealers.
FAQ
Does Eagle Natural Seal change the color of concrete?
Eagle says it doesn't alter the appearance of the treated surface. Concrete keeps a dry, natural look with no gloss.
How long does Eagle Natural Seal last?
Eagle doesn't give a set number of years. It says to reseal when the surface no longer beads water. Owner reports vary, and some say it held up well over a couple of winters. Sun, traffic and deicing salt all affect how long it lasts.
What happens if it rains after applying?
Eagle says not to apply it if rain is expected within 12 hours. If rain hits sooner, check for even water beading once the surface dries, and spot-treat any thin areas.
Can you use Eagle Natural Seal on pavers or brick?
Yes for brick, block, mortar joints and concrete. Those are all listed on the label. For concrete pavers, test a small area first, and remember it won't add color enhancement.
Verdict
Eagle Natural Seal is a simple, affordable, easy-to-find penetrating water repellent. It protects exterior concrete and masonry without changing how they look, and it's popular with homeowners for good reason. Its limits are that it repels water only, doesn't publish an actives percentage and has a label that's unclear about previously sealed surfaces. If oil stains or severe salt exposure are your main worry, look at Natural Seal Plus or a high-actives silane. Our rating: 4.0/5
How we reviewed this product: this is a research-based review built from the manufacturer's technical data sheet and current retail listings. We have not run our own hands-on tests of this product. Details were checked in October 2026; always follow the current label.
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Looking for BEHR’s clear sealer instead? This review covers No. 875, a paint-like coating for damp basement and masonry walls. For the clear, no-sheen water repellent for driveways, patios and pavers, see our BEHR Protector & Waterproofer (No. 980) review.
The BEHR waterproofer most homeowners mean when they talk about sealing a damp basement wall is the BEHR PREMIUM Basement & Masonry Waterproofer No. 875, now sold as BEHR DryPlus Masonry Waterproofer (still No. 875). Unlike BEHR’s clear No. 980 Protector & Waterproofer, this is a thick, paint-like acrylic coating for basement walls, retaining walls, block and stucco. The bottom line: it is a solid DIY option for walls that get damp or see minor seepage, but it is not a fix for active leaks or floors, and it hides the masonry under a flat painted finish.
| Type | Film-forming waterproofing coating (paint-like) |
| Chemistry | 100% styrene acrylic latex, about 45% solids by volume |
| Finish | Flat; white, Basement Gray or tinted colors |
| Coverage | 75–125 sq ft per gallon, depending on porosity and method |
| Coats | Two (first heavier, about 75 sq ft/gal; second about 125 sq ft/gal) |
| Dry/recoat | Touch dry 1 hour; recoat 4 hours (77°F, 50% RH) |
| Cure | 7–14 days; wait two weeks before washing |
| VOC | Under 100 g/L |
| Best for | Interior or exterior basement and retaining walls, block, brick, stucco, cement board |
| Not for | Floors; walls with active leaks; over existing oil or latex paint |
| New concrete | Wait at least 30 days |
Watch: BEHR DryPlus No. 875 in 60 seconds
What It Is / How It Works
This product has gone by a few names. Older cans read BEHR PREMIUM Basement & Masonry Waterproofer, later versions added "with NANOGUARD Technology," and today it is sold as BEHR DryPlus Masonry Waterproofer. The product number, No. 875, has stayed the same, and a pre-mixed Basement Gray version is sold as No. 876.
It is a high-build styrene acrylic coating. Behr's data sheet lists about 45% solids by volume and a first coat that goes on at roughly 21 mils wet. Behr says nano-sized particles fill the gaps between larger coating particles to create a tighter film. That film is what stops water: the data sheet lists 12 psi of hydrostatic pressure resistance (ASTM D7088), a pass on wind-driven rain testing and a water vapor permeance under 1 perm, which means it can act as a vapor barrier.
That last point is the key difference from a penetrating sealer. A clear repellent such as BEHR No. 980 lets the wall breathe and stays invisible. DryPlus sits on the surface, changes the look of the wall and blocks vapor. That is useful on the inside of a basement wall, but it also means moisture in the wall has to go somewhere, so outside drainage still matters. If you are comparing clear options for exterior concrete, see our best waterproofing concrete sealer guide.
Where It Works Best (and where it doesn't)
Behr rates it for masonry, poured concrete, concrete block, cement board siding, brick and stucco, above or below grade, inside or outside. The typical use is the interior side of a poured or block basement wall that feels damp, shows efflorescence after rain or seeps a little at the bottom. It also works on exterior retaining walls and foundations, and it doubles as a block filler and primer on masonry with a pH up to 13.
It is not for floors, and Behr says not to use it on floors or walls with active water leaks. Holes and cracks below grade need to be patched with fast-setting hydraulic cement first. It also should not be applied over oil- or latex-based paint, so a previously painted basement wall usually needs the old paint removed. A coating can only resist so much: if water is pouring through a crack or the wall is pushing in, deal with grading, gutters, drainage or a structural repair before you paint anything.
Pros
- Rated to resist 12 psi of hydrostatic pressure
- High-build film fills pores in block and rough concrete
- Water-based, VOC under 100 g/L, water cleanup
- Tintable and mildew-resistant, with a flat decorative finish
- Fast recoat (4 hours) so two coats fit in one day
- Works as its own primer and block filler on masonry
Cons
- Low coverage (75–125 sq ft per gallon), so you need a lot of it
- Not for floors or walls with active leaks
- Cannot go over existing oil or latex paint
- Covers the masonry with a painted look; not invisible
- Acts as a vapor barrier, so it does not let the wall breathe like a penetrating sealer
- Full cure takes 7–14 days
How to Apply It
- Let new concrete cure at least 30 days. Press tape onto the wall and pull it off; if it lifts concrete, remove loose material down to a sound surface.
- Below grade, patch all holes and cracks with fast-setting hydraulic cement. Above grade, remove mildew with a mildew remover.
- Clean off dirt, dust, efflorescence and oil, using an acid etcher such as muriatic acid or mechanical cleaning. Remove old loose paint; do not apply over oil- or latex-based paint.
- Apply between 50°F and 90°F, out of direct sun and not on hot surfaces. Ventilate well indoors.
- Do not thin. Brush with a nylon/polyester brush, roll, or spray with an airless sprayer. Work the first coat into pores and pinholes at about 75 sq ft per gallon.
- After 4 hours (at 77°F and 50% humidity), apply the second coat at about 125 sq ft per gallon. Allow longer in cool or humid conditions.
- Let it cure 7–14 days, and wait two weeks before washing the surface.
How It Compares
BEHR PREMIUM Protector & Waterproofer No. 980: the clear, water-based silane/siloxane from the same brand. It soaks in and leaves no film, but Behr says it is not for areas under hydrostatic pressure. Use No. 980 for exterior flatwork and above-grade walls; use DryPlus for basement walls.
Other masonry waterproofing paints: several brands sell similar thick latex or cement-based basement coatings. Compare the hydrostatic pressure rating, coverage per gallon and whether the product can go over existing paint, since those are the specs that vary most.
Penetrating sealers for basements: silicate densifiers and silane/siloxane repellents work inside the concrete and do not peel, but they leave the wall looking bare. They suit owners who want to treat dampness without painting. Our guide to the best penetrating concrete sealers covers those.
FAQ
Is BEHR DryPlus the same as BEHR Basement & Masonry Waterproofer?
Yes. It carries the same No. 875 product number. Behr's literature has used both names, and the current name is BEHR DryPlus Masonry Waterproofer.
Will it stop a leaking basement wall?
Not an active leak. Behr says not to use it on walls with active water leaks and to patch holes and cracks with hydraulic cement first. It is rated for 12 psi of hydrostatic pressure once properly applied over a sound, patched wall.
Can I put it on my basement floor?
No. Behr lists it as not for floors. Use a floor-rated coating, such as an epoxy or a penetrating sealer, instead.
Can I paint over it?
It is tintable, so most people simply pick a color and use it as the finish. Behr's data sheet does not list a topcoat requirement. If you want a different color later, check the current label for compatible products.
Verdict
BEHR DryPlus No. 875 is a capable, widely available basement and masonry waterproofing paint with a published 12 psi rating, low VOC and easy water cleanup. It is a coating, not a cure-all: it needs bare, patched, clean masonry, it uses a lot of product, and it will not hold back active leaks. For a damp basement wall where you are fine with a painted finish, it is a reasonable DIY choice. Check the current label on Behr's product page. Our rating: 3.8/5
How we reviewed this product: this is a research-based review built from the manufacturer's technical data sheet and current retail listings. We have not run our own hands-on tests of this product. Details were checked in October 2026; always follow the current label.